Tag: geisha

Fit for a Party

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Just a little entry today, but I was so inspired by the Oshiroi perfume that I knew I had to make an outfit worthy of it. I knew it had to be something timeless and elegant, so using a kurotomesode was the way to go and this gorgeous hamaya piece fit the bill. It’s quite long and the design comes up very high. Also, when worn in a more standard way a lot of the design gets lost in the ohashori. This leads me to believe it was originally intended to be worn hikizuri-style, so of course I ran with it.

I went with my own twist on typical tachikata geiko-inspired styling, with a gorgeous gold obi and white and gold accessories. I even used a red obiage as a sort of momi beneath the obi, but it got a little lost. The obijime is technically too casual, but it matches the kimono so perfectly with that rich teal and almost pinkish red, I couldn’t not use it. 

Getting the mannequin to show off the beautiful perfume box was a bit of a challenge, and I’ve had to photoshop the hands slightly so if they look mangled I apologise.

Items used in this coordination

Oshiroi by Meleg Perfumes

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I have something incredibly special for you today. Sometimes I cannot believe how lucky and privileged I am that my passion gives me the opportunity to experience things like this. Oshiroi, created by small-batch artisan perfumer Matthew Meleg, is the first fragrance to be made officially in conjunction with geisha, specifically the house of Umeno Okiya of Kamishichiken. If you’re reading this blog, you likely already know what oshiroi is, but for any new readers or people who found me through unusual channels, it’s the traditional name for the classic white face paint used for centuries by maiko and geisha (as well as other theatrical, aesthetic, and celebratory performers — but in the modern day it’s most commonly associated with the flower and willow world).

Meleg Perfumes are all hand crafted using the finest oils and fragrances, and Matthew’s passion for both perfumery and Japanese traditional arts shines through with every thoughtful choice, from the fragrance to the bottle to the external packaging.

As I am not a perfume expert by any means, I will share the official description and scent notes:

The Perfume
Oshiroi is hand-blended in my garden laboratory using pure orris butter—one of the rarest and most precious ingredients in perfumery—and other fine natural materials chosen for their softness, grace, and timeless beauty.
Every bottle is crafted with care, and this inaugural edition is strictly limited to 500 pieces worldwide.

Top Notes: violet enfleurage
Heart Notes: ylang ylang extra organic, heliotrope
Base Notes: Orris Butter from Florence

As soon as I saw these on Etsy, my heart soared, and then sank. I knew a product made with this much love and attention would not be friendly to my budget. However, I thought maybe I could purchase a tiny tester, like the ones you get from stores, so I threw caution to the wind and sent out a message. Matthew got back to me with a response I could not have dreamed of. He offered to send me a custom travel-size to test out and share with you all. Even though this fragrance is a limited run and not available in the travel size he offers for some other products, he went out of his way to not only send me one, but to make this gorgeous custom package for it. You guys. I can’t.

The fragrance is just as transportive and stunning as the packaging. It somehow manages to feel vintage but timeless, not old and stuffy by any means. You can just imagine this scent wafting delicately through any period in time. It’s floral, but not too much. A bit powdery, a bit woody, but all so perfectly balanced that it never feels heavy or overwhelmed by one note. I can imagine that my grandmother might have worn this and I mean that as the highest compliment. She was an incredibly stylish, fashion-forward, and put-together woman, and the person who inspired my love of Japanese traditional art from the beginning.

Also, the packaging for the full-sized bottles is a work of art in itself. This is a showpiece, something you’d be proud to display along with a collection of vintage kimono and artwork. Not only is the bottle itself stunning, it comes with a certificate of authenticity as well as a little hanameishi from maiko Umemai.

photos courtesy of Matthew Meleg and Umeno Okiya

This perfume is by no means an impulse buy, and I understand that times are tight for a lot of us. I wish I could turn it into a daily fragrance but it’s so special that I will be saving it for important moments. But for anyone enamored of the flower and willow world who has the budget, it’s an incredibly unique and worthwhile splurge. It’s on par with buying a designer fragrance, but comes directly from a passionate artisan and an actual geisha house which makes it all the more special. It also inspired me to do something fun that should be posted soon, so keep an eye out.

Please check out Oshiroi and other Meleg Perfumes on Etsy, even if it’s just to admire the stunning beauty of these products.

 I received this item from the retailer or manufacturer for honest review purposes.If you have a topically appropriate craft, product, or service you would like me to review, please contact me. 

Undersea Adventure

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Today is Gofuku no Hi (着物着ます, Wear Kimono Day), and even though I finally have some kimono that fit me well, I just wasn’t up to getting dressed myself. I’m still under the weather from allergy season and a few days ago I stepped on a very large chunk of glass and my foot hurts enormously. But I couldn’t let the day pass by without at least dressing the mannequin!

I’d been feeling sort of uninspired lately, trying to come up with interesting new coordinations with pieces I own and love but nothing was coming to mind. Suddenly, yesterday, it hit me. My beloved geisha hikizuri and octopus obi from 3Magpies Studio would come together perfectly to form an elegant. monochrome undersea outfit.

Dressing the hikizuri like a regular kimono was more of a challenge than I’d anticipated. There’s a ton of fabric folded up under the obi but I think I did a very good job of keeping it neat and tidy. I really love how the theme and colours came together, and this gorgeous octopus obidome with pearls and red synthetic coral pieces from PintoPonyProductions was the perfect crowning touch.

Back when I did the Disney Princess Project a lot of folks suggested I do villains. While it wasn’t my intention, between the purple tones and aquatic motifs this outfit has a definite Ursula vibe to it. Maybe I will do the villains after all!

Items used in this coordination

Tsukihana, Custom Geisha Monster High Doll

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Hello everyone! I’d like you all to meet Tsukihana! Back at the beginning of the year I got a bee in my bonnet and decided I wanted to customise a doll. If you follow me on Instagram, you’ve likely seen sneak peeks and progress shots, but she’s finally complete and I’m so excited to share her.

She started life as a Draculaura doll I bought on the cheap off eBay. I chose Draculaura because I liked the shape of her face, and her skin colour was close enough to a normal human skin tone that it wouldn’t be too difficult to tone down the few visible bits. I also wanted a doll with primarily black hair, but that ended up not mattering in the end.

I started out with her face. I stripped down the original paint, toned down the back of her head and neck with soft pastels, and used white chalk paint as oshiroi. The face details were a combination of pastels, watercolour pencils, and acrylic paint. The Draculaura doll’s face sculpt reminded me very much of a now-retired geiko named Mamehana, so I referenced the following photos of her quite heavily while painting. (1, 2, 3).

My next step was to change the colour of her hands from pink to a more natural tone. Somehow during this process, I lost her hands. I looked for them for literally months, but they’re just… gone. In the end I gave up and bought a replacement set on eBay. I toned them with brown and yellow chalk pastels that helped neutralise the bright pink tone.

When it came to repainting the face and body, I found Dollightful  and Poppen Atelier, two very helpful YouTube channels with lots of information on customising Monster High and similar dolls. Initially, I’d planned to style her original hair using these traditional katsura styling videos but in the end her hair proved too stubborn and poofy, and it looked pretty awful no matter what I did, so I chopped it all off and sculpted a hairstyle out of clay. It’s primarily based on the tsubushi shimada, but I had to take a few creative liberties. Her kanzashi are beads and charms I had lying around.

The outfit was a co-production. Makiko of JaponSakura (who also made this beautiful Pullip kimono) was kind enough to custom-make me a plain black hikizuri-style kimono and coordinating obi using the fabric I selected, since it reminded me of the moon. Once I received it, I painted the plum and bamboo design around the hem and the custom crests myself, I thought since it was such a small scale, using regular acrylic would be fine, but if I were to do another custom like this I’d definitely invest in fabric paints instead. The crests might seem a bit proportionally large by modern standards, but any smaller and they would have just looked like blobs. Her momi (the red fabric wrap geisha wear beneath the obi), juban sleeves, and underskirt are just scraps of red fabric I hand-sewed and tacked into place. The zori are a pair of MH shoes I repainted and modified slightly – they originally looked like this. I removed some of the strap bulk and painted some white to make it disappear a little. I did debate reforming her feet so they would be flat, but I was hesitant to experiment that much and risk ruining the doll. Makiko also included tabi with the kimono but they made her feet too bulky to fit in the shoes, so in the end I just sanded some detail off her toes and painted her legs with the same chalk paint I used on her face.

Her shamisen was improvised, made from foam board, stir sticks, and gorgeous washi tape from The Rare Orchid. I got a bunch of beautiful paper and tape from them, a full review is coming!

This beautiful lady has been a labour of love. For my first custom doll, I think she turned out spectacularly. I don’t think I’ll be doing this on a regular basis, as she was a significant investment in time, workmanship, and materials, but I might make her a friend or apprentice maiko in the future. I’m also seriously considering turning a Skelita Calaveras into a very stylised Jigoku Dayu but that will definitely be a much longer and more detailed project if it ever comes to pass.

Book Review: Geiko & Maiko of Kyoto

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Geiko & Maiko of Kyoto
 by Robert van Koesveld
Language: English
ISBN: 978-0-9944501-0-4
Buy Here

For this volume, van Koesveld was awarded the Photography Book of the Year (2015) by the Australian Institute of Professional Photographers, and it’s easy to see why. While the text is certainly interesting and well-written, the photographs are the heart and soul of this book. They are beautiful, and there are many of them. The book is full of gorgeous, crisp full-colour plates of geiko, maiko, live performances, as well as garments and accessories, and the skilled people who make them. It’s a fantastic glimpse into a world most of us will never get to see.

The book features interviews with maiko and geiko who live and work in Kyoto, as well as interviews and information about the artisans and craftspeople who support the community. It offers an unprecedented look into the Flower and Willow World, the mysterious and ethereal environment where these women live and work that most of us will never be able to experience. It is filled with information that anyone interested in modern geisha traditions and culture would love to have in their collection.

(The tinting and distortion in these sample pages is a result of my scanning process; the photos in the book are absolutely beautiful and these pictures do them no justice)

I would recommend this book for:


-People interested in the tradition and culture of geiko and maiko
-People looking for information about the artisans and tradespersons who support this culture
-Anyone who appreciates beautiful photography

I would not recommend this book for:


-People who have incorrect assumptions about geiko and no interest in learning
-People looking for instructions on how to dress maiko or geiko-style I received this item as a backer perk for a project or product that was crowd-funded (Kickstarter, IndieGoGo, etc)