Oshiroi by Meleg Perfumes

I have something incredibly special for you today. Sometimes I cannot believe how lucky and privileged I am that my passion gives me the opportunity to experience things like this. Oshiroi, created by small-batch artisan perfumer Matthew Meleg, is the first fragrance to be made officially in conjunction with geisha, specifically the house of Umeno Okiya of Kamishichiken. If you’re reading this blog, you likely already know what oshiroi is, but for any new readers or people who found me through unusual channels, it’s the traditional name for the classic white face paint used for centuries by maiko and geisha (as well as other theatrical, aesthetic, and celebratory performers — but in the modern day it’s most commonly associated with the flower and willow world).

Meleg Perfumes are all hand crafted using the finest oils and fragrances, and Matthew’s passion for both perfumery and Japanese traditional arts shines through with every thoughtful choice, from the fragrance to the bottle to the external packaging.

As I am not a perfume expert by any means, I will share the official description and scent notes:

The Perfume
Oshiroi is hand-blended in my garden laboratory using pure orris butter—one of the rarest and most precious ingredients in perfumery—and other fine natural materials chosen for their softness, grace, and timeless beauty.
Every bottle is crafted with care, and this inaugural edition is strictly limited to 500 pieces worldwide.


Top Notes: violet enfleurage
Heart Notes: ylang ylang extra organic, heliotrope
Base Notes: Orris Butter from Florence

As soon as I saw these on Etsy, my heart soared, and then sank. I knew a product made with this much love and attention would not be friendly to my budget. However, I thought maybe I could purchase a tiny tester, like the ones you get from stores, so I threw caution to the wind and sent out a message. Matthew got back to me with a response I could not have dreamed of. He offered to send me a custom travel-size to test out and share with you all. Even though this fragrance is a limited run and not available in the travel size he offers for some other products, he went out of his way to not only send me one, but to make this gorgeous custom package for it. You guys. I can’t.

The fragrance is just as transportive and stunning as the packaging. It somehow manages to feel vintage but timeless, not old and stuffy by any means. You can just imagine this scent wafting delicately through any period in time. It’s floral, but not too much. A bit powdery, a bit woody, but all so perfectly balanced that it never feels heavy or overwhelmed by one note. I can imagine that my grandmother might have worn this and I mean that as the highest compliment. She was an incredibly stylish, fashion-forward, and put-together woman, and the person who inspired my love of Japanese traditional art from the beginning.

Also, the packaging for the full-sized bottles is a work of art in itself. This is a showpiece, something you’d be proud to display along with a collection of vintage kimono and artwork. Not only is the bottle itself stunning, it comes with a certificate of authenticity as well as a little hanameishi from maiko Umemai.

photos courtesy of Matthew Meleg and Umeno Okiya

This perfume is by no means an impulse buy, and I understand that times are tight for a lot of us. I wish I could turn it into a daily fragrance but it’s so special that I will be saving it for important moments. But for anyone enamored of the flower and willow world who has the budget, it’s an incredibly unique and worthwhile splurge. It’s on par with buying a designer fragrance, but comes directly from a passionate artisan and an actual geisha house which makes it all the more special. It also inspired me to do something fun that should be posted soon, so keep an eye out.

Please check out Oshiroi and other Meleg Perfumes on Etsy, even if it’s just to admire the stunning beauty of these products.

 I received this item from the retailer or manufacturer for honest review purposes.If you have a topically appropriate craft, product, or service you would like me to review, please contact me. 

Review – Nippon Kodo Incense Discovery

Back when I had my little shopping trip to Wabi Sabi in Palm Springs, one of the treasures I brought home was this lovely set of five kayuragi incense fragrances from Nippon Kodo. It’s a great option for anyone who isn’t ready to commit to a larger box of one scent, and the beautiful packaging with ukiyo-e art makes it an excellent gift as well. These are traditional Japanese compressed incense with no wooden stick in the centre. Each small box comes with a little metal incense holder, but I have so many holders and beautiful little ceramic dishes that I didn’t feel the need to use them. But they’re handy for travel or gifting purposes!

I’ve been trying out the fragrances over the past couple of months, and have broken them all down and collected my thoughts for you.

Aloeswood

To me, this is the most classic-feeling. It has an almost dreamlike quality, heady but grounded. Something about it smells very “traditional”, like you might smell it in a temple or a minka, but not in a fussy or dated way. Just in a vital, historical, transportive way.

Green Tea

This one is so bright and fresh. It’s got notes of grassiness and an almost citrus-like property. It’s incredibly balancing and would make a great incense for the morning, or to help with focus while working. It’s definitely a light green tea scent, not an earthy matcha-type, and reminds me of a high-end spa. I really like it!

 

Osmanthus

I really enjoy smell of osmanthus, something that’s criminally under-represented in western fragrances but thankfully a staple of Asian scent profiles. This one captures the beautiful floral, slightly fruity aspects of osmanthus blossom without verging into cloying. I knew I’d like it, but I didn’t know I’d absolutely love it.

Sakura

As much as I love sakura for body and personal fragrance, and continue to hunt for the perfect one, it’s not my go-to for home or lifestyle type scents. That said, this one really surprised me. It’s definitely fresh, clean, and floral, but without any of the powdery or soapy quality sakura can often have. I can’t really describe it, other than a happy, upbeat sort of floral. If you need a mood booster, look no further!

 

Sandalwood

As someone who lives in North America, I’ve long associated the scent of sandalwood incense with head-shops and a certain sort of lifestyle. Nothing against that sort of lifestyle, but it’s not exactly a fragrance I find myself leaning into. I was apprehensive about these, but I’m so happy to report it was all for naught.  This is slightly spicy, slightly woody, and not remotely redolent of unwashed hair and the devil’s lettuce.

I still don’t think it will be my first choice, but it’s definitely a more elegant and elevated sandalwood than I was anticipating.

Overall, the aloeswood and osmanthus top my personal list but any of these would be a fantastic addition to a welcoming home. If you’re not ready to commit to a scent, or are just looking for a housewarming or hostess gift, this set is perfect for you. You can find Nippon Kodo on their own website, or on Amazon.

 I purchased this item myself and chose to review it.This post contains affiliate link(s). If you choose to purchase, I receive a small rebate or commission which goes to the continued maintenance of this site.If you have a topically appropriate craft, product, or service you would like me to review, please contact me. 

Olfactory Journey Through Japan – Feat. Demeter Fragrance Library

While I was continuing my hunt for a true sakura fragrance, I stumbled across Demeter’s incredibly wide selection of fascinating and unique perfumes. I knew I wanted to try their cherry blossom out, but I was also intrigued by a variety of their other offerings. I suspected that a lot of them would pair elegantly with kimono, and bring a whiff of Japan into your mundane daily life. I reached out, ready to purchase but hoping they could arrange a custom sample pack to save a bit of money. Imagine my pleased surprise when they kindly offered to send me a selection of my choice to review!

Without further ado come join me on a journey through the fragrant air of Japan, courtesy of Demeter Fragrance Library.


Black Tea

We start our day with a voyage, strong cup of black tea. With notes that balance toasty and floral, this is a comforting and familiar scent that will awaken your senses. Reminiscent of the perfect brew of wakouchathis black tea fragrance is versatile and grounded, making it lovely by itself and an excellent base for layering.

purchase Black Tea here


Plum Blossom

While not as universally-beloved as her spring sister sakura, the ume or plum blossoms exploding across branches is one of the iconic images of late winter and coming spring — especially when paired with the charming bush warbler. Their scent is headier and richer, and a bit more mature, but no less transportive and this perfume captures that note perfectly. Minus the bush warbler, of course. If you’re looking for a deeper, slightly more complex floral then plum blossom might be for you!

purchase Plum Blossom here


Cherry Blossom

As late winter flows into spring, the sakura on the shores of the Kamo river burst into bloom. Their ephemeral, ethereal beauty is perhaps one of the most emblematic images of Japan. The gentle flush of pink, the flutter of a falling petal, but one thing that pictures can never capture is the clean, delicate, equally airy scent. This fragrance comes close — maybe the closest I’ve come yet. It dries down to a skin-like powdery note, nothing like the soapy chemical cherry blossoms I’ve tried in the past. The only thing preventing it from being the perfect sakura is that it finishes on a delectable rich cherry fruit note. I love it, but it does interrupt the gentleness of the blossom.

purchase Cherry Blossom here


Chrysanthemum

As autumn rolls around, so too does the chrysanthemum, the kiku, the imperial crest of Japan. She’s iconic, she’s timeless, she smells vaguely like a funeral home but in the best possible way. I would normally not feel comfortable making that comparison in a review, but seeing as how Demeter makes a Funeral Home fragrance already, it’s absolutely a compliment in this case. This fragrance captures both the deep spiciness of a pure white chrysanthemum and the bright herbaceous green of the stems and leaves. It’s a bit more unique and interesting than a pure floral would be, and all the better for it.

purchase Chrysanthemum here


Yuzu Marmalade

Next, we find ourselves in Kito, Tokushima province, where the climate produces the best yuzu in the world. Yuzu marmalade is a bright, invigorating fragrance, perfect for imbuing your day with happiness and cheer and bringing a smile to everyone around you. The scent is perfectly balanced between tangy citrus and sweet jammy goodness, and I can see myself falling back on this one time and time again when I need a pick-me-up.

purchase Yuzu Marmalade here


Green Tea

To refresh ourselves, we’ll make a stop at Gion Tsujiri for a cup of sencha. Bright and just a little bit grassy, with a hint of something crisp like pine or citrus? Not quite sharp, but definitely bracing in the best way. It definitely mellows out as you wear it, and envelops you in a gentle green.

purchase Green Tea here


Bamboo

Finally, we find ourselves in the lush bamboo forests of Arashiyama. Unfortunately, with something as personal and preference-based as fragrance, not everything is a winner. I was hoping this would be lush, bright, and verdant. However, on me it just smells oddly like dish soap. However, it smells completely different on my mother so she’s happy to steal it from me! It will not go to waste, but it is something to keep in mind whenever you’re buying perfume online.

purchase Bamboo here


Another great thing about most Demeter fragrances is how well they layer. Because they’re relatively single-note focused, there’s little worry about fragrance notes competing or clashing with each other. The two combos I’ve tried — and loved — were mixing Green Tea & Cherry Blossom, and Black Tea & Yuzu Marmalade. The first is bright, fresh, and perfect for spring whereas the second surrounds you in comforting warmth perfect for autumn. I fully intend to try other combinations as well. I suspect the black tea will also be incredible with the depth of the chrysanthemum and part of me wants to layer all three florals together to see what happens.

These mini sprays are the perfect size to toss in a purse and are very travel-friendly. Just make sure the caps are screwed on very tightly; the green tea one was slightly loose and leaked a bit.

Overall, I’m very pleased with the bulk of these, and the one that isn’t quite meshing with my body chemistry will find a happy home with my mum. Thank you again to Demeter Fragrance Library for making this possible. I encourage you to check them out if you’re a fan of singular and unique perfumes, be they wa or not.

 I received this item from the retailer or manufacturer for honest review purposes.If you have a topically appropriate craft, product, or service you would like me to review, please contact me. 

Review – L’Occitane Cherry Blossom

I may have not posted about it of late, but my quest for a true, easily accessible sakura fragrance is ongoing. L’Occitane is a French brand that is available world-wide, and Fleurs de Cerisier is part of their permanent collection, so you can’t get much more accessible than that. I grabbed an Eau De Toilette rollerball and matching hand cream, since I alternate between living with electric heat all winter and living in the desert. I can never have too many hand creams!

Please note: L’Occitane recently redid their visual identity and packaging and I purchased these right before that happened, but the product remains the same.

Unfortunately (and this is entirely my fault for not reading details ahead of time), this is definitely not a singular cherry blossom scent. It’s described as having opening notes of cherry, lemon, and freesia. The heart is cherry blossom, yes, but also heavy on the lily of the valley. It definitely has more of the clean, fresh smell I am looking for, unlike the powder-heavy Rituals set from a while back, but it’s still got too much going on to fit the brief. I do enjoy the notes and progression of this one and it will definitely get used. No worries there! The hand cream is also nice and moisturising but absorbs quickly. This is important to me, as someone who spends a lot of time using a mouse and also can’t risk getting products like this on kimono when  am working with them.

So while I have a lovely new fragrance to add to the rotation, my search for the “perfect” sakura continues! Do you have any suggestions? If so, please leave me a comment!

 I purchased this item myself and chose to review it. 

Review – Hibi 10Minutes Aroma

Today I bring you another wonderful little lifestyle product from Japan, to help transport you to a more relaxed and beautiful world, even if it’s only for ten minutes. This odd liminal time of year can be very stressful, and we’re all looking for ways to start the new year with new habits and new routines. Hibi 10Minutes Aroma can help with that, all while bringing the gentle scents of Japan directly to your home. 

These are a fascinating little product. They may look like standard strike-anywhere matches, but the entire stick is made of tightly compressed incense. You light the head and let it burn down to ash, getting ten minutes of a transportive fragrance that surrounds you.

I chose one of their sample packs, to get a variety of scents before committing to a volume of one or two without knowing what they smelled like. I am glad I did, because the variety here was absolutely lovely. There were some bright, fresh scents like yuzu or lemongrass, some gentle florals like the ylang-ylang, and some deeper woody notes like the sandalwood. I’d highly recommend snagging this pack as well before getting locked into one of the larger 30-stick packs.

The fragrances I have tried so far (lemongrass, yuzu, lavender, sandalwood, and ylang-ylang) have all been absolutely lovely. The main notes are clear and present, but surrounded with a typical sort of “oriental note” familiar incense smell that prevents them from reading as too perfumed or fussy. They’re all very natural and subtle, and don’t spread far so if you live in a home with people who are sensitive to fragrance or don’t enjoy the notes listed, simply closing a door or opening a window for a fresh breeze will likely be enough so that the smell does not bother them. However, I cannot speak to allergies or medical sensitivities, so please keep that in mind.

The packaging on these is very thoughtful as well. It’s sleek and minimal, which makes it excellent to throw into a travel bag or hand out as a small hostess or thank-you gift. The sampler comes with a burn-proof mat you can rest your Hibi match on as it burns. I have used mine multiple times and it’s still absolutely solid and safe. However, you can also put them into any ceramic or burn-proof dish or carefully wiggle them into a small incense holder. Mine are meant for thinner sticks but with some gentle persuasion they can be slotted into the largest opening on most holders. However, they are fragile (more on that below) so you need to be cautious.

Because these are set to a standard timeframe of ten minutes, they’re an excellent way to take a quick focus or meditative break. They remind me somewhat of an antiquated method of time-keeping, relying on incense clocks. I burnt one at a time on several of my lunch breaks during the particularly hectic holiday rush, and it was a lovely way to both escape and ground myself for the afternoon rush.

As I mentioned earlier, the only negative I can find about Hibi 10Minutes Aroma is that since the entire stick is incense, it is a bit more fragile than a regular match would be. If you strike them too hard there is a chance of them snapping. Personally, I find it easier to light the “match” head with an external source like a long-handled candle lighter but if you find yourself without one you can definitely make them work just by being gentle.

You can find Hibi 10Minutes Aroma on their own website, as well as at many smaller local specialty retailers, especially Japanese lifestyle stores or fine home goods shops. If these options are not accessible for you, they are also available on Amazon.

 I purchased this item at a discounted price for honest review purposes. If you have a topically appropriate craft, product, or service you would like me to review, please contact me.This post contains affiliate link(s). If you choose to purchase, I receive a small rebate or commission which goes to the continued maintenance of this site.