Movie Review – Kokuho

What would you give — or give up — for a chance at true greatness?

Kokuho (国宝, “National Treasure”) is a stunning glimpse into the heart of kabuki set against the backdrop of post-war economic boom. An epic tale of family, masculinity, craft, and friendship. Without spoiling it, the movie follows Tachibana Kikuo, the orphaned son of a Yakuza boss who is taken into the care of national kabuki treasure Hanjiro Hanai II. Hanjiro is currently raising his own son Shunsuke to become his successor and inherit the title of Hanjiro Hanai III. Both boys come to take on the roles of onnagata, performers who play the female roles in kabuki, which contrasts sharply with the hyper-machismo of the Yakuza world that Kikuo knew beforehand. The boys are trained in unison, leading to a beautiful rivalry full of professional and emotional passion as well as heartbreak, and ultimately, triumph.

The movie spans decades, from the early sixties straight through to a finale in 2014. I am not here to summarise or spoil it, so I am not going to delve into the plot, but that timeframe encompasses so much character development, both positive and negative. We see Kikuo and Shunsuke’s lives interwoven as they train together, rise to stardom together, let bitter rivalries and the public’s fickle attention get the better of them. We see them at their highest, and at their lowest, and at all the poignant messes in between as their careers ebb and flow, and as they drift and out of each others’ lives. Kokuho is not what I would consider an uplifting movie, but it has moments of great optimism and hope, and a pure and devoted heart.

I admit I went into the movie biased for two reasons; first, and most obvious, is the wardrobe and set design. This movie is absolute eye-candy for anyone interested in kimono and traditional Japanese arts. The second — and far more vapid — reason is that Watanabe Ken plays the veteran kabuki star, father, and mentor Hanjiro. I could watch that man read the phone book and be happy with my life choices, if I’m being honest.

Kokuho is a visual masterpiece, a lush love letter to a venerated art form. The story unfolds in a sharp contrast of dramatic, gut-wrenching action and quiet, meditative moments that embody the Japanese concept of ma (間), a sort of purposeful void, pause, or empty moment that helps to emphasise the action or space surrounding it. Ma is often used in traditional theatre, both noh and kabuki, and I have no doubt the similar use of pauses, silences, and visual empty or liminal spaces was absolutely intentional. However, it can make things hard to follow if you are unfamiliar with it; jumps in scene, location, or emotional tone may end up feeling disjointed or even badly edited to viewers without that frame of reference. The lives of the actors are interwoven deftly with stage performances, which help to underscore the reflected themes and emotions happening in both, but again, this may prove distracting or confusing for some viewers, especially those coming into this with little to no knowledge of kabuki.

It may be due to this that Kokuho was not nominated for a best foreign film Academy Award, which is a travesty in my opinion. I haven’t seen any of the films that did get nominated but I stand stubbornly by my statement, because this is my blog and I can. It was nominated for Best Makeup and Hairstyling, which I absolutely understand. Not just for the traditional oshiroi and wigs, but for the incredibly natural aging that happens over the course of the film. It’s impossible to tell what ages the actors actually are, and if they were aged down or up. I do hope we get to see the team in kimono (and maybe even nihongami) on red carpets during awards season, but I don’t have my hopes up.

There’s a reason Kokuho has become the highest-grossing live-action film in Japanese history. It’s more than a “foreign film” at this point, it’s a global phenomenon. And not without due cause; it is a feat of both visual and emotional storytelling. It’s rare that I sit through an entire movie without getting up at least a couple of times to pee or stretch my legs — let alone a movie with a three-hour run time. During my first watch, I somehow managed to stay put for the whole thing (minus one quick washroom break), and at no point did I find myself wondering how much was left. The second watch-through was much longer and more fragmented over the course of several days, as I paused regularly to take notes and capture images.

One repeated device in the movie that I really appreciated, as someone not terribly familiar with kabuki, was these cards at the beginning of every major dance sequence. It helped give context to each dance, which is vitally important since, as I mentioned earlier, the themes and emotions conveyed in the dances often mirror what’s happening off-stage in some way.

Of course, it wouldn’t be a Kimono Tsuki review if I didn’t talk about the kimono, now would it? The thing that started my love letter to the Japanese arts, and continues to be my primary obsession. The stage costumes, obviously, are all lush, gorgeous, and deftly handled. The costumes in kabuki tend to be relatively standardized and help to identify the characters and archetypes being performed, so it’s no surprise that a movie that is such a passionate and thorough love letter to the art form went all-in with the costuming. What really caught my attention, kimono-wise, was how well the non-costume outfits were coordinated, and how well they telegraphed pertinent details such as age, status, time of year, and yes, decade. From the rough meisen day-wear of the 60s to the subdued silk houmongi of the 80s, they really ensured that the style, colours, and patterns of each kimono accurately reflected what situation and timeframe of the movie we were in. Considering the attention to detail in the rest of the movie, I should not have been surprised by this, but it was still a lovely thing to see.

Speaking of “lovely things to see”; when I say it was nearly impossible to keep my screenshotting to a minimum here, you need to believe me. Since Kokuho is over three hours long and nearly every scene is visually stunning, I had to be selective. I also had to skip over large chunks to avoid spoilers. And I still ended up with all these breathtaking images I had to share with you.

My only real “complaint” (such as it is) about the movie is that there are so few women in it, and they’re so one-dimensional that they may as well all be the same character. However, this is the story about two men, their friendship, and their journeys, so nearly all the secondary characters are equally undeveloped. Kabuki has historically been a male-only field — hence the need for onnagata — so it makes sense that the female characters are basically set dressing or accessories. It is simply something to keep in mind if that sort of representation is important to you.

Kokuho will be receiving a wide English-subtitled North American theatrical release this coming Friday, February 20th, and will hopefully be available on streaming and blu-ray later this spring. If you are creative at sailing the seas of the internet, there are ways to find it currently (which is how I was able to get screenshots) but I urge you to show your love and support for this fantastic movie by seeing it on the big screen. The visuals alone will be worth it.

Kokuho on IMdb
Kokuho on Wikipedia

Modern Valentine

Pink, orange, and black may not be the most expected Valentine’s Day combination, but this is what happens when I’m thousands of miles away from my husband on a day to celebrate love, I guess. No, I kid! I was actually inspired by the incredible modern styling of aedam_furisode on Instagram to pull out a ruffled juban and a big loud furisode. Since the only ruffled juban I own is black, the rest of the outfit had to be built around that. I brought out this bright salmon-pink gosho-guruma (royal cart) furisode, since I knew it had some stark black outlines on it, and then grabbed my trusty orange hakata chuuya obi because it matches the peonies on this kimono so well. If I’m being honest, any excuse to use this obi is a good one.

To break up the tonal similarities of the salmon kimono and orange obi, as well as reinforce the non-traditional vibe and aedam style, I used black cotton lace as a sort of obiage and shigoki-obi, as well as running it through the obi-musubi. It also makes the black ruffles feel more cohesive I think, and brings more attention to the stark black outline of the gosho-guruma motif on the kimono. Without the lace I think this would have just felt confusing and the exposed juban more like an afterthought or an accident, but with the punches of black accessories it pulls everything together. A black obijime tied in a modified kokoro-musubi was the final touch. It’s too short to do a normal one, but if you’re looking for instructions I made a tutorial years ago which you can find here.

Are you doing anything special for valentine’s day? Since I’m so far from Keith, I’m going out for bbq chicken with my folks later tonight. Ahhh, middle age. So romantic. But hey, at least I don’t have to buy him honmei-choco this year!

 

Review – L’Occitane Cherry Blossom

I may have not posted about it of late, but my quest for a true, easily accessible sakura fragrance is ongoing. L’Occitane is a French brand that is available world-wide, and Fleurs de Cerisier is part of their permanent collection, so you can’t get much more accessible than that. I grabbed an Eau De Toilette rollerball and matching hand cream, since I alternate between living with electric heat all winter and living in the desert. I can never have too many hand creams!

Please note: L’Occitane recently redid their visual identity and packaging and I purchased these right before that happened, but the product remains the same.

Unfortunately (and this is entirely my fault for not reading details ahead of time), this is definitely not a singular cherry blossom scent. It’s described as having opening notes of cherry, lemon, and freesia. The heart is cherry blossom, yes, but also heavy on the lily of the valley. It definitely has more of the clean, fresh smell I am looking for, unlike the powder-heavy Rituals set from a while back, but it’s still got too much going on to fit the brief. I do enjoy the notes and progression of this one and it will definitely get used. No worries there! The hand cream is also nice and moisturising but absorbs quickly. This is important to me, as someone who spends a lot of time using a mouse and also can’t risk getting products like this on kimono when  am working with them.

So while I have a lovely new fragrance to add to the rotation, my search for the “perfect” sakura continues! Do you have any suggestions? If so, please leave me a comment!

 I purchased this item myself and chose to review it. 

Art Gallery – Spy X Family X Kimono

What’s this? I drew an actual male character in male kitsuke for once? Alert the presses! I was in the mood to draw more comfy anime kimono fanart, and ended up with these three perfect precious idiots. Very capable idiots,  but idiots nonetheless.

My original plan for this was just to draw Anya because I love her so much. But as I started on it, I realised it would be even cuter if it I took a riff on a traditional family portrait. I like to think they’re celebrating Anya’s shichigosan (even though we don’t know exactly how old she is, we know she’s in the right range).

Once I had that in mind, their outfits sort of fell into place. Anya’s in a bright and cheerful pink furisode (which admittedly I should have tucked at the sleeves as well as the shoulders, but I realised it too late) with a cosmos pattern. She’s holding them in the first season closing credits, and they fit the pink theme well. They’re also said to represent pure and innocent love, which is what Anya feels for her family. If you look closely at her obi and zori, what initially looks like a fairly traditional black and gold obi with a geometric design is actually a tessellation of her favourite snack; peanuts!

Yor had to be red and gold with a rose motif, of course. Nothing less for our Briar Rose Princess. Her updo hairstyle already suits kimono so well, she was possibly the most natural fit for this picture. I gave her a yabane motif obi as a nod to her secret life as an assassin; I know she doesn’t use a bow and arrow, but I wanted something a bit less literal. Maybe she’s got some daggers tucked into her obi?

Loid was a bit more of a challenge, since he’s such a blank slate. In the end, I stuck to the usual colours of his clothing and think it works well. He provides a nice neutral counterpoint to Yor’s elegance and Anya’s vibrancy. Of course, as much as I don’t condone piercing holes in your kimono, I had to include his WISE lapel pin.

Soft blushing pink

By now you’ve likely heard the viral, catchy, colour-mixing song from Dokodemo Jamboree and either you love it or you hate it. But either way, it’s probably stuck in your head! It was certainly stuck in mine while I was trying to come up with a cute coordination, so I decided to go in a monochrome direction and have a bit of fun making a video to go with this post. I am trying to be a bit more active on short-form reel platforms, but I am old and tired and prefer being behind the camera nowadays. Interacting with my TikTok or Youtube accounts will help me find the motivation to keep up with them.

I have plenty of items in multiple colours I could have “combined” to do this, but soft pink is always a really safe and comforting fallback, and I suspected these two pieces, with their warm blush backgrounds and bright pops of colour, would work really well together. While it’s not really “proper” to have a kimono and obi be the exact same like this, you know I love bending the rules. I just made sure the rest of my kitsuke was as perfect as I was capable of assembling considering how out of practice I am.

Toss in a few more accessories in a deeper shade of the same salmon pink and voila! It might not be vibrant or “PINKU!”, but it makes me happy and nowadays isn’t that the important part? I have to find joy wherever I can. You should too! Whether that be unconventional combinations, making meme videos, putting a kimono on the fake Labubu you found in a parking lot, or anything else people might deem frivolous or silly. If it brings a smile to your face in these dark times and doesn’t hurt others, do it unapologetically.

Also, I’m trying out a new setup for photos that allows me to work in my bedroom instead of taking over my parents’ living room. I might even be able to bring it with me to California because it all collapses down, but I definitely can’t bring the mannequin. Let me know what you think!