Category: Reviews

Oshiroi by Meleg Perfumes

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I have something incredibly special for you today. Sometimes I cannot believe how lucky and privileged I am that my passion gives me the opportunity to experience things like this. Oshiroi, created by small-batch artisan perfumer Matthew Meleg, is the first fragrance to be made officially in conjunction with geisha, specifically the house of Umeno Okiya of Kamishichiken. If you’re reading this blog, you likely already know what oshiroi is, but for any new readers or people who found me through unusual channels, it’s the traditional name for the classic white face paint used for centuries by maiko and geisha (as well as other theatrical, aesthetic, and celebratory performers — but in the modern day it’s most commonly associated with the flower and willow world).

Meleg Perfumes are all hand crafted using the finest oils and fragrances, and Matthew’s passion for both perfumery and Japanese traditional arts shines through with every thoughtful choice, from the fragrance to the bottle to the external packaging.

As I am not a perfume expert by any means, I will share the official description and scent notes:

The Perfume
Oshiroi is hand-blended in my garden laboratory using pure orris butter—one of the rarest and most precious ingredients in perfumery—and other fine natural materials chosen for their softness, grace, and timeless beauty.
Every bottle is crafted with care, and this inaugural edition is strictly limited to 500 pieces worldwide.

Top Notes: violet enfleurage
Heart Notes: ylang ylang extra organic, heliotrope
Base Notes: Orris Butter from Florence

As soon as I saw these on Etsy, my heart soared, and then sank. I knew a product made with this much love and attention would not be friendly to my budget. However, I thought maybe I could purchase a tiny tester, like the ones you get from stores, so I threw caution to the wind and sent out a message. Matthew got back to me with a response I could not have dreamed of. He offered to send me a custom travel-size to test out and share with you all. Even though this fragrance is a limited run and not available in the travel size he offers for some other products, he went out of his way to not only send me one, but to make this gorgeous custom package for it. You guys. I can’t.

The fragrance is just as transportive and stunning as the packaging. It somehow manages to feel vintage but timeless, not old and stuffy by any means. You can just imagine this scent wafting delicately through any period in time. It’s floral, but not too much. A bit powdery, a bit woody, but all so perfectly balanced that it never feels heavy or overwhelmed by one note. I can imagine that my grandmother might have worn this and I mean that as the highest compliment. She was an incredibly stylish, fashion-forward, and put-together woman, and the person who inspired my love of Japanese traditional art from the beginning.

Also, the packaging for the full-sized bottles is a work of art in itself. This is a showpiece, something you’d be proud to display along with a collection of vintage kimono and artwork. Not only is the bottle itself stunning, it comes with a certificate of authenticity as well as a little hanameishi from maiko Umemai.

photos courtesy of Matthew Meleg and Umeno Okiya

This perfume is by no means an impulse buy, and I understand that times are tight for a lot of us. I wish I could turn it into a daily fragrance but it’s so special that I will be saving it for important moments. But for anyone enamored of the flower and willow world who has the budget, it’s an incredibly unique and worthwhile splurge. It’s on par with buying a designer fragrance, but comes directly from a passionate artisan and an actual geisha house which makes it all the more special. It also inspired me to do something fun that should be posted soon, so keep an eye out.

Please check out Oshiroi and other Meleg Perfumes on Etsy, even if it’s just to admire the stunning beauty of these products.

 I received this item from the retailer or manufacturer for honest review purposes.If you have a topically appropriate craft, product, or service you would like me to review, please contact me. 

Review – Nippon Kodo Incense Discovery

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Back when I had my little shopping trip to Wabi Sabi in Palm Springs, one of the treasures I brought home was this lovely set of five kayuragi incense fragrances from Nippon Kodo. It’s a great option for anyone who isn’t ready to commit to a larger box of one scent, and the beautiful packaging with ukiyo-e art makes it an excellent gift as well. These are traditional Japanese compressed incense with no wooden stick in the centre. Each small box comes with a little metal incense holder, but I have so many holders and beautiful little ceramic dishes that I didn’t feel the need to use them. But they’re handy for travel or gifting purposes!

I’ve been trying out the fragrances over the past couple of months, and have broken them all down and collected my thoughts for you.

Aloeswood

To me, this is the most classic-feeling. It has an almost dreamlike quality, heady but grounded. Something about it smells very “traditional”, like you might smell it in a temple or a minka, but not in a fussy or dated way. Just in a vital, historical, transportive way.

Green Tea

This one is so bright and fresh. It’s got notes of grassiness and an almost citrus-like property. It’s incredibly balancing and would make a great incense for the morning, or to help with focus while working. It’s definitely a light green tea scent, not an earthy matcha-type, and reminds me of a high-end spa. I really like it!

 

Osmanthus

I really enjoy smell of osmanthus, something that’s criminally under-represented in western fragrances but thankfully a staple of Asian scent profiles. This one captures the beautiful floral, slightly fruity aspects of osmanthus blossom without verging into cloying. I knew I’d like it, but I didn’t know I’d absolutely love it.

Sakura

As much as I love sakura for body and personal fragrance, and continue to hunt for the perfect one, it’s not my go-to for home or lifestyle type scents. That said, this one really surprised me. It’s definitely fresh, clean, and floral, but without any of the powdery or soapy quality sakura can often have. I can’t really describe it, other than a happy, upbeat sort of floral. If you need a mood booster, look no further!

 

Sandalwood

As someone who lives in North America, I’ve long associated the scent of sandalwood incense with head-shops and a certain sort of lifestyle. Nothing against that sort of lifestyle, but it’s not exactly a fragrance I find myself leaning into. I was apprehensive about these, but I’m so happy to report it was all for naught.  This is slightly spicy, slightly woody, and not remotely redolent of unwashed hair and the devil’s lettuce.

I still don’t think it will be my first choice, but it’s definitely a more elegant and elevated sandalwood than I was anticipating.

Overall, the aloeswood and osmanthus top my personal list but any of these would be a fantastic addition to a welcoming home. If you’re not ready to commit to a scent, or are just looking for a housewarming or hostess gift, this set is perfect for you. You can find Nippon Kodo on their own website, or on Amazon.

 I purchased this item myself and chose to review it.This post contains affiliate link(s). If you choose to purchase, I receive a small rebate or commission which goes to the continued maintenance of this site.If you have a topically appropriate craft, product, or service you would like me to review, please contact me. 

Stepping out of my comfort zone

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In the more than two decades I’ve been studying, collecting, and coordinating kimono and Japanese arts and aesthetics, one thing I still find myself struggling with is Japanese colour palettes. I studied graphic design before I fell into this little rabbit hole, and my colour sensibilities are innately Western.

 

It’s possible you’ve seen this adorable little A Dictionary Of Color Combinations book on some fashion and personal style social media accounts lately, it’s gone somewhat viral, and for good reason. It’s less a book and more a collection of colour palettes that appeal to the Japanese aesthetic. If you’re ever stuck for inspiration, it’s a fantastic place to start. You can either open a random page and go from there, or if you have a piece in your collection you’re unsure of what to do with, there’s a handy index at the back. Find the swatch closest to your piece and then view all the options! That’s what I ended up doing here, with this gorgeous early-Showa komon I picked up at the Palm Springs vintage market a few months back.

 

 

I found this palette with the colour “Eugenia red”, which was about as close as I could find to the kimono. The complementary options were “Sulphine yellow”, “Green Blue”, and “Raw Sienna.” The obi is nearly spot-on for the sulphine yellow, and the other two colours show up in the obi motifs quite nicely. Would I normally have paired a red kimono with mustard and green accessories? Not in a million years! Was it successful? That’s for you to decide. I think it works, but it’s definitely not my favourite thing I’ve ever put together. I will definitely keep trying combos from this book though

Also if you’re curious about my manicure in the book pics, it’s Zoya Midori stamped with this Maniology sashiko plate. I was going for “matcha latte” vibes.

 

Items used in this coordination

 

 This post contains affiliate link(s). If you choose to purchase, I receive a small rebate or commission which goes to the continued maintenance of this site. 

Review – Onigiri Shop Montreal West

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When I was younger, here in Montreal the only options for Japanese food locally were fancy expensive restaurants or the Teriyaki Experience in the mall food courts. It was still considered foreign and exotic and not really of appeal to a broader audience. As time went on, sushi became more prevalent and easily accessible, and then the ramen wave hit, and now Japanese fast casual is a staple in most urban environments. However, one thing I’d yet to see anywhere other than festivals or events put on by the JCCCM is onigiri, or seaweed-wrapped rice balls.

Enter Onigiri Shop — an adorable local chain that serves, you guessed it, onigiri (amongst other things). There’s one quite close to my house so a little while ago I took the opportunity to check it out and grab a couple of onigiri to try out. I’m very happy I did!

The location is tiny, but has everything they need and feels very charming. It’s actually within a few minutes of my old high school and I used to spend time here 25 years ago when it was a used bookstore! Since then it’s been a cupcake shop, and Indian takeout, a Jamaican takeout, and now Onigiri Shop. I hope they last a while, as the food was affordable and really tasty. I will say there is very little seating space, as it’s definitely intended as a take-out location, but they told me they’ll be putting seating outside when the weather gets nicer.

First off, can we appreciate the tiny adorable box they come packaged in? Both the onigiri I purchased fit snugly in there and felt very secure on the ride home. I just hope if you buy more you get a larger box. One way to find out. I guess I’ll have to go buy more!

I decided to sample one fairly standard and one more unique offering; I chose one with spicy tuna and one with kimchi and avocado, and they were both delicious. The rice is nice and well-seasoned and holds together well, and the fillings are bright and flavourful and there’s plenty of it. There’s a bit more seaweed than I was expecting but it helps the onigiri keep its shape while you’re eating it so I don’t mind. It worked nicely. I do look forward to trying some of the other options, as well as their non-onigiri menu items and desserts, maybe on the patio area in the summer if I am around.

Overall, I’m quite impressed with the food, price, and convenience of this location of Onigiri Shop. I’m curious to see how other locations compare, and how consistent they are. That’s always a toss-up when it comes to chain franchises. But I’m very glad to have another tasty grab-and-go option when I’m out and about!

Olfactory Journey Through Japan – Feat. Demeter Fragrance Library

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While I was continuing my hunt for a true sakura fragrance, I stumbled across Demeter’s incredibly wide selection of fascinating and unique perfumes. I knew I wanted to try their cherry blossom out, but I was also intrigued by a variety of their other offerings. I suspected that a lot of them would pair elegantly with kimono, and bring a whiff of Japan into your mundane daily life. I reached out, ready to purchase but hoping they could arrange a custom sample pack to save a bit of money. Imagine my pleased surprise when they kindly offered to send me a selection of my choice to review!

Without further ado come join me on a journey through the fragrant air of Japan, courtesy of Demeter Fragrance Library.

Black Tea

We start our day with a voyage, strong cup of black tea. With notes that balance toasty and floral, this is a comforting and familiar scent that will awaken your senses. Reminiscent of the perfect brew of wakoucha, this black tea fragrance is versatile and grounded, making it lovely by itself and an excellent base for layering.

purchase Black Tea here

Plum Blossom

While not as universally-beloved as her spring sister sakura, the ume or plum blossoms exploding across branches is one of the iconic images of late winter and coming spring — especially when paired with the charming bush warbler. Their scent is headier and richer, and a bit more mature, but no less transportive and this perfume captures that note perfectly. Minus the bush warbler, of course. If you’re looking for a deeper, slightly more complex floral then plum blossom might be for you!

purchase Plum Blossom here

Cherry Blossom

As late winter flows into spring, the sakura on the shores of the Kamo river burst into bloom. Their ephemeral, ethereal beauty is perhaps one of the most emblematic images of Japan. The gentle flush of pink, the flutter of a falling petal, but one thing that pictures can never capture is the clean, delicate, equally airy scent. This fragrance comes close — maybe the closest I’ve come yet. It dries down to a skin-like powdery note, nothing like the soapy chemical cherry blossoms I’ve tried in the past. The only thing preventing it from being the perfect sakura is that it finishes on a delectable rich cherry fruit note. I love it, but it does interrupt the gentleness of the blossom.

purchase Cherry Blossom here

Chrysanthemum

As autumn rolls around, so too does the chrysanthemum, the kiku, the imperial crest of Japan. She’s iconic, she’s timeless, she smells vaguely like a funeral home but in the best possible way. I would normally not feel comfortable making that comparison in a review, but seeing as how Demeter makes a Funeral Home fragrance already, it’s absolutely a compliment in this case. This fragrance captures both the deep spiciness of a pure white chrysanthemum and the bright herbaceous green of the stems and leaves. It’s a bit more unique and interesting than a pure floral would be, and all the better for it.

purchase Chrysanthemum here

Yuzu Marmalade

Next, we find ourselves in Kito, Tokushima province, where the climate produces the best yuzu in the world. Yuzu marmalade is a bright, invigorating fragrance, perfect for imbuing your day with happiness and cheer and bringing a smile to everyone around you. The scent is perfectly balanced between tangy citrus and sweet jammy goodness, and I can see myself falling back on this one time and time again when I need a pick-me-up.

purchase Yuzu Marmalade here

Green Tea

To refresh ourselves, we’ll make a stop at Gion Tsujiri for a cup of sencha. Bright and just a little bit grassy, with a hint of something crisp like pine or citrus? Not quite sharp, but definitely bracing in the best way. It definitely mellows out as you wear it, and envelops you in a gentle green.

purchase Green Tea here

Bamboo

Finally, we find ourselves in the lush bamboo forests of Arashiyama. Unfortunately, with something as personal and preference-based as fragrance, not everything is a winner. I was hoping this would be lush, bright, and verdant. However, on me it just smells oddly like dish soap. However, it smells completely different on my mother so she’s happy to steal it from me! It will not go to waste, but it is something to keep in mind whenever you’re buying perfume online.

purchase Bamboo here

Another great thing about most Demeter fragrances is how well they layer. Because they’re relatively single-note focused, there’s little worry about fragrance notes competing or clashing with each other. The two combos I’ve tried — and loved — were mixing Green Tea & Cherry Blossom, and Black Tea & Yuzu Marmalade. The first is bright, fresh, and perfect for spring whereas the second surrounds you in comforting warmth perfect for autumn. I fully intend to try other combinations as well. I suspect the black tea will also be incredible with the depth of the chrysanthemum and part of me wants to layer all three florals together to see what happens.

These mini sprays are the perfect size to toss in a purse and are very travel-friendly. Just make sure the caps are screwed on very tightly; the green tea one was slightly loose and leaked a bit.

Overall, I’m very pleased with the bulk of these, and the one that isn’t quite meshing with my body chemistry will find a happy home with my mum. Thank you again to Demeter Fragrance Library for making this possible. I encourage you to check them out if you’re a fan of singular and unique perfumes, be they wa or not.

 I received this item from the retailer or manufacturer for honest review purposes.If you have a topically appropriate craft, product, or service you would like me to review, please contact me.